The snows of Kanchenjunga feed a challenging less known relative of the Sun Kosi. The spectacular Tamur combines an exhilarating river expedition with one of the best short treks in the Himalayas.
Picking up our team of fifty porters at Basantapur we trek for 3 days through ancient moss covered Rhododendron forests and sunlit meadows. The short trek is stunning, with great views of Kanchenjunga, Makelu and Everest. Descending to Dobhan we wander through charming Gurung villages and emerald fields of rice. Children play excitedly along the trail as we pass, snow-capped Himalayan giants surround us, and the champagne river churns and bubbles below. It gets even better - local people are a fascinating collage of tribes and castes who have perfected the brewing of their local drink, Tungba, to a fine art...
At Dobhan three tributaries of the Tamur join their forces, combining the racing rivers of the high mountains to the north. Steep canyon walls enclose the river and the rapids are powerful and continuous. In the middle section the river opens up and there are beautiful white sandy beaches. The last few days where the river turns back to the west is phenomenal. Towering waves leap skyward, with seemingly endless rapids surging through steep canyon walls. Small fishermen's villages line the confluence of every major tributary, while wild monkeys watch from the jungle as we drift past.

For people who want a longer trip that combines a spectacular short trek with intense whitewater, the Tamur is without a doubt the river to run.

Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu, take a deep breath and you are ready to confront the confusion of Kathmandu's Tribhuvan International Airport. After clearing immigration and customs hang onto your gear, ignore the porters who will try to carry your bags and charge ridiculous amounts even if they only touch your bags, and continue through the restricted section to the passenger pick-up area outside the building. This can be pretty confusing with taxi drivers looking for fares, hotel touts desperately seeking customers and a large number of people just getting in the way - welcome to Asia! Don't worry, an Ultimate Descents representative trained in anti taxi-wallah judo will meet you at the airport with an Ultimate Descents sign and escort you to your hotel. In the afternoon there is time to face the hustle of this amazing city and explore Kathmandu. Walking around this ancient city is like being in the world's biggest outdoor museum! We recommend a good guide book (cheaply available in Kathmandu's many book shops) and then grabbing either a taxi or rickshaw or heading off on foot to visit some of the incredible temples, stupas, and squares that make up this most vibrant of capitals. From observing prayer wheels turning at the Buddhist stupa of Bodhnath, to perhaps gaining a glimpse of the Living Goddess in Durbar Square, there are endless ways to pass the day. A great way to finish it off is with a cold drink on one of the many terrace cafes people watching. Kathmandu has more eccentric characters per square km than any other country on Earth. At 6pm this evening we'll have a pre-departure briefing in then head off to one of Kathmandu's finer restaurants for a meal together.


Day 2
After a hearty breakfast at Mike's Restaurant it's time to head off to the airport for a 55-minute flight to Biratnagar. On a clear day the views of the Himalayas and Mt. Everest are incredible. At Biratnagar we meet up with the rafting bus and drive up through the bustling market town of Hile and onto the end of the road at Basantapur where we camp.

Day 3-5
No visit to the Himalayas would be complete without trekking and it is no accident that one of the world's finest rivers starts with one of Nepal's most scenic treks. At Basantapur our Sirdhar (head porter) will be there with a tough looking crew who will carry all the expedition gear to the river. Gear is divided up, prices haggled, and these stouthearted men and boys then pick up loads with their necks, and head on up the trail. It's quite a sight to watch a 60-kilo man in his mid thirties trudge up a steep mountain trail with a 70-kilo raft hanging off a strap which runs across his forehead. It's enough to make you want to join a health club. This part of Nepal sees very little tourism and the villages and farms you see along the trail are much the way rural Nepal has been for hundreds of years. Our 3-day trek follows a ridge up to a 10,000 ft pass above the sacred lake at Gupha Pokhari with magnificent views of Kanchenjunga, Makalu and the Everest mastiff, before dropping into the lush villages of the Tamur valley providing a truly memorable approach to this classic Himalayan white water descent. Days are long and the trail can be difficult in places, but with Porters carrying the gear and Sherpa guides we should all make it to the river intact. Expedition members carry a daypack with a warm set of clothes, water bottle and camera. Trekking camps are an extravagant affair with staff preparing well-deserved meals. Arriving at Dobhan where the river expedition starts it is highly recommended that you sample the local Thungba (Millet wine).

Day 6 - 10
The Tamur and its tributaries drain the snows of Kachenjunga, third highest peak in the world. Constrained by steep valley walls, it becomes Nepal's sixth largest river and one of the world's remotest whitewater river expeditions. At our put in point we sort equipment and inflate the rafts. The guides tie all the equipment into the rafts, which is quite a thing to witness. Twenty years of running rivers has taught us a lot, not the least of which is how to tie a load so it stays put no matter what, which is just as well because the first 20 kilometers of the Tamur is basically one long rapid.

A raft trip down the Tamur isn't just a vacation・it's an education. Our river guides spend the first part of the morning explaining the finer points on how to paddle through whitewater and stay in the raft as it bucks and contorts through rapids. For those who missed a point in the previous lesson there is a lesson on how to swim through whitewater, using your flotation device to keep your head up and your feet to push off rocks or pesky kayakers who happen to be surfing in the middle of a rapid. The guides will also teach you what they look out for when they run a river, the innocuous looking rise in the water that hides a hole, or the way you can use a pillow of water rebounding off a rock to push the raft where you want it. Whitewater rafts are amazingly versatile and stable crafts, and in the care of an expert raft guide it is possible to run challenging lines safely and confidently. Your guide is a professional, someone who has devoted their life to learning and running rivers. Under his or her careful indoctrination the raft crew learns how to work as a team, practicing on the numerous smaller rapids we encounter on the first two days of the river.

From Dobhan we have 120 kilometers of breath-taking river journey through the heart of eastern Nepal. With over 100 class 3 and 4+ rapids, the Tamur offers a unique six days of white water with plenty of time to explore hidden side valleys and visit remote villages.

Camping on the Tamur is awesome. The massive floods of the monsoon deposit huge tracks of pure white sand along the river creating ideal campsites surrounded by lush forest and terraced hillsides. We will have at least one layover day where we stay at the same river camp for two nights. HELLO BEACH PARTY!!! Volleyball, sand sculpture, foot bag, Frisbee, sun bathing or just relaxing on a warm beach with a good book are favorite activities for the layover day. You can also take advantage of the layover day to trek to a peak or nearby village, or take part in the kayak workshop the safety boaters offer. Evenings are spent around the campfire, drinking hot-spiced rum and getting to know the people on the trip. Food is communally prepared, every day a different raft crew helping with the creation of sumptuous meals. The kitchen becomes one of the main social points on the trip, and without a doubt the best place to catch up on the latest gossip or get to know someone better・Gut that chicken for you, mam?

Day 10
The Lower Tamur is a steep and continuous mountain river section; a unique combination of exceptionally fun and challenging rapids without it ever getting past the point of recreation. It's sort of like being flushed down a huge open-air toilet, but the Tidy Bowl Man is your guide and there are no worries. Emerald green fields are terraced high above the river on precipitous slopes, curious villagers lining suspension bridges are amazed as we plunge through cascading waves and chutes of foam.

Day 11
The Tamur / Sun Kosi confluence is called Tribeni Ghat and has an interesting temple to visit. Before emerging onto the flatland Terai, there is another larger Hindi Temple called Baraha Chhetra. Every year on the day of the full moon in January, thousands of Hindu pilgrims mass here to pay homage to Lord Vishnu. Legend has it that once a demon god inhabited this area and troubled the villagers, holy men and pilgrims. Hearing of this, Lord Vishnu, preserver of the universe, took the form of a pig and slayed the demon in battle. Inside the temple is a pig headed figure of Lord Vishnu, and the annual Braha festival commemorates the victory. Just a little further downstream lays India and all its semi functional chaos. The final day we raft the Sun Kosi to Chatara and then return to Kathmandu. From the takeout it is a short 2 hours drive then a 55-minute flight back to KTM and a welcome hot shower. The mountain views on a clear day are outstanding as the flight goes right along the main Himalayas.

Day 12
After a rather leisurely breakfast we take you back to the airport for your return flight.